My 50th party dress

I made my daughter a version of the couture dress (Vogue 8648) a couple of months ago, and then made myself a straight skirted version for the Christmas season.  I was soooo delighted with this dress, and the version that I made as my annual Christmas dress that I made myself another party dress from the same pattern, this time dedicated to 50^th birthday parties.   

I seem to have a spat of these over the next few months (with mine in there somewhere too) so I figured that I could justify yet another new dress dedicated to this particular round of parties.   

This time I did use most of the couture techniques that Susan Khalje recommends, and even remembered to put bra retainers in this one.  I did the circle skirted version and used the stiff hemming tape, which took ages (five metres of hemming).  

Other than that the time consuming methods weren't to laborious, mainly because it is the third time sewing this pattern, and the second time for me.  There were no fitting adjustments required at all.

The fabric is a heavy weight cotton, almost denim weight and it has took to the hemming tape really well, giving it quite a bit of swing.

Overall I’m delighted with the dress.  I wore it to a double celebration last night – a friend’s 50^th, and for me yesterday marked exactly one year smoke free!

Project 38 and the start of the party season!

This fabric has been in my stash for about three years.   

It wasn’t that she didn’t speak to me – because she was always intended to be a dress and we both agreed on this from the start.  I was a little unclear about the exact dress pattern, but she was always going to be a Christmas dress, so every year, when I failed to sew her up for Christmas, she returned to the stash for the following year.  Unlike a lot of the fabric in my stash, she wasn’t cheap and I was determined to make her into something special.  

My original idea for her was a bustier dress, and under that guise she was project 38 of my 52 projects.  Despite several muslins I am still not happy with the fit of the bustier dress top and when I gimped her she looked great as Vogue 8648.

I bought this pattern as part of the craftsy couture dress course and had been through the muslin process for myself and my daughter, (with the daughter’s help).  I had to abandon the couture methods for my daughter’s dress when the deadline was brought forward six weeks, and I was delighted with the result.  I was determined to make 2013 the Christmas that I finally got this dress from the stash into the wardrobe.  I laid her out on the spare room floor, and pinned her pattern pieces to her, 

...and then procrastinated for a week.  The fact that I had invested more money in her than most of my fabrics made me hesitant to actually cut into her.  

When I gave into a cheap fabric that wanted to be jeans I left her on the floor and worked round her while I was cutting out jeans.  If I put her away I’m sure she’d have ended up deferred to 2014 Christmas! 

As soon as I finished the jeans I was determined to actually sew her up.  Having started using the couture methods it initially seemed a shame to abandon them, but I really couldn’t face interlining this dress.  She’s a medium weight cotton with just a hint of Lycra and we are experiencing a particularly warm spring at the moment, so I wanted to keep her as light as possible.  I have a wool mix in mind for a winter version of this dress, so I’ll use interlining on that one.  I did go with the hand-picked zip, and put the (cotton) lining in by hand, but I used the overlocker to finish the edges as she’ll by machine washed.

I am pleased with the result.

I didn’t get around to putting Susan Khalje’s bra retainers in, but I should have.  I’ll retro fit them before her next wearing.

I was a little concerned that she looked a little too innocent, so I added a flash of black lace in the back slit in an attempt to sort of vroom her up a bit.

 

Susan Khalje lifted the back of the dress up, and when I make a work appropriate dress, and/or a sleeved version I will do the same as this dress is inclined to slip off the shoulders.

Despite not using the full couture methods on this dress, I learnt heaps on this course and will have used most of the techniques already, just not all on a single garment.  

As my first dress for the Christmas season I wore it last night to a cabaret and dinner with friends.  We saw “In Flagrante” at the Galatos Ballroom in Auckland.  It was only on for one night, so there’s no point in recommending it, but it was hysterical and if I ever see any more shows by this group I’ll definitely be keen to see them again.

um... another Frocktober

This dress was scheduled for completion for the first week in December, until Thursday, when my little princess advised me of a slight scheduling adjustment.  Instead of the first weekend in December, could she possibly wear it this weekend?

Being an absolute sucker, I dropped everything else and got stuck in. 

I had planned to do this dress for her following Susan Khalje's Craftsy course.  I had already been through the muslin stage and fitted it on her, but had got no further, since she hadn’t chosen a fabric. 

Having a well-fitting muslin meant that when she arrived on Friday for the final fitting and length consultation, I had made pretty good progress, and we managed to get it finished in time for her to go out for the evening.  

Obviously there was no way I was going to be able to use the couture methods with this time frame, so I reverted to the pattern instructions.  The only concession to couture was inserting the zip by hand.  I didn’t want to use an invisible zip as she wanted the bodice very snug.  It would be a shame to have the zip go early in the evening and spoil the effect of what is a stunning dress.

I had also intended to use the hemming tape that Susan K suggested, but I couldn’t find any.  I tried four different shops and only one of them even knew what I was talking about.

I will continue to search and as a temporary measure I used iron on hemming tape!  I know, it seems like cheating, but it did give the hem a little extra body that really worked for this dress.   

As soon as I can find the real stuff the dress will be recalled for improvement!

Instead of ordinary lining, I used  cotton poplin, as she will be wearing this dress in warm weather, and I can’t imagine ordinary lining being at all comfortable.  I also only lined the bodice section.

I’m actually very pleased with the result, and so was my "little princess".  The dress looks stunning despite the last minute scheduling adjustment.  I even managed to get back to the jumpsuit that I planned to wear on Saturday evening ( I realise that this is a strange concept to anyone under 20, but I did actually have plans of my own for the weekend other than sewing for my off-spring).

New game to play!

This is going to have a lot of photos.  

I’ve finally taken the time to work through the curious kiwi’s amazing tutorial on visualising fabric and patterns.  I really don’t know why I didn’t do it before.  The first one took AGES, but once you get the hang of it it’s quick and I’m able to get enthusiastic about projects that have withered for a while.

Frocktober will have to start with this dress...

I bought the couture dress course back in January, and I’ve watched most of the lessons.  However, I was procrastinating over starting the dress as I considered several fabrics from my stash.

A summer evening...

A classy work option

Now I can actually visualise what they might look like if I got my A into G and actually started sewing them.

I’ve been hankering after a jumpsuit ever since I considered one for the Burda Sew a long in May,   but did a jacket instead.  Now I can see just what my fabrics would look like.

Although I’ve also recently bought the Tania Culottes and wonder whether the pastel print would look good as a Tania?  Wonder no more!

And with summer round the corner I can get excited about flowery print dresses and skirts too…

…and even the long promised jeans…

On a more serious note, that nice pinky sort of tweed would make a great jacket...

... with a matching skirt of course...

The down side to this is that I’m actually having to go through and acknowledge my fabric stash, and tell myself again that I MUST stop buying fabric until it has diminished:

150 x 160

135 x 220

110 x 100

220 x 150

120 x 90

130 x 200

150 x 400

150 x 750

110 x 400

150 x 300

110 x 200

150 x 120

150 x 200

150 x 300

150 x 100

150x 100

This is less than half of what I have hidden in various cubby holes so I don’t have to face the real size of my stash.

Do other people know how much fabric they actually own?